Rock Climbing Is Hard. Recovery Doesn’t Need To Be…

In pursuing your rock climbing journey you will become fatigued, plateaued, or otherwise injured. The key to recovering from any of these ailments is proper knowledge and proper implementation of certain techniques, procedures and use of specialized equipment. Rock climbing recovery does not need to be as hard as the climb itself, so climb on empowered by the information you are about to receive.

Rock Climbing Training.

Everyone brings their own strengths and weaknesses when starting out in rock climbing training. There is always room for improvement for the climber no matter their skill level. Any rock climbing training routine should focus on building a strong core, stamina, flexibility, finger strength, and a mindset of self-improvement and determination. As a climber always reaching for higher achievements you may feel you need an expensive gym membership. The truth is there are many exercises you can do at home to improve your climbing skill.

The Training schedule.

In starting any training routine you must first consider your capabilities, where you want to improve, and most of all how much time can you dedicate each week to training. Start by making a list of all these things, and a schedule should emerge from it. A good example of an exercise routine may consist of three to four days of strength and endurance training one week followed by cardio exercises the next. Other things to consider when constructing your personal routine are sets and reps.

• Sets: A set is a series of exercises that are done all at once without stopping. For example, if you were to do five pull-ups in a row, you would have done one “set” of pull-ups. The recommendation of sets is usually in groups of five depending on the exercise and skill level. This, however, is up to you. You just need to pay attention to how your body responds to the exercise and change accordingly. Starting out in any endeavor can feel clunky, but with patience, you are sure to see results. Just go for it, analyze, and adapt.
• Reps or Repetitions: The amount of the exercise done within each “set”. When deciding how many reps to do for an exercise, look at what you are trying to achieve. Your goals for each exercise should fall under either trying to improve muscle endurance or improving strength. To build endurance the reps should be in the ten to twenty range. To build strength you should keep the reps under ten. In building endurance, the rest period between sets should also be kept to a minimum of no more than one minute. To build strength will require low reps, high weight, and much longer times between sets.

What Muscle Groups To Focus On And Why In Rock Climbing Training.

• Core: The abdominal muscles. A strong core will provide much-needed balance when close to the wall, and all other rock climbing training endeavors.
• Back: Includes muscles such as your trapezius and laterals. Your back works in concert with the core to keep you stable while climbing.
• Legs: Strong leg muscles are where most of your power to ascend will come from. You will be on your toes a lot while climbing, and having strong calve will support them. Never neglect to work on proper form and strong legs.
• Glutes: Supplemental to the ever important legs. Also good to land on when bouldering!
• Arms: From your shoulders right down to your fingertips, the arms will be tested while climbing. Also provides that extra bit of strength when your legs cannot provide enough pushing power on their own. Strong forearms provide a stronger grip as well.

The Exercises and Muscle Groups Benefited.

• Pull-Ups: WIll work the back as well as the arms. If you find doing twenty reps of pull-ups easy you could modify the exercise by pulling up quickly and then let down slowly as this will also benefit your endurance.
• Push-Ups: Can offer an all-around balance to your upper body as well as some core benefits. There are multiple variations to this simple exercise such as the superman push-up that engages your core much more than a standard push-up.
• Plank: While in a push-up position bend your elbows at 90 degrees and let your weight rest on your forearms. Hold this position for at least one minute if possible. A go-to exercise for strengthening the core and also having benefits for the back.Common variations are the side plank and fingertip plank.
• Six Inches: Lying down flat with your hands by your side and raising your legs six inches off the floor. Works the core, upper legs, and glutes. Vary by doing bicycle kicks or flutter kicks.
• Lunges: Step ahead until your front leg is at 90 degrees and the other leg is parallel to the floor, alternating your legs during the exercise. An alternative to lunges as well as providing cardio is stair climbing,
• Heel Raises: With your hands on a wall, raise your heels up and hold for five seconds and then slowly lower yourself back flat on the floor. The toes and calves are important to climbing and this exercise can even be done waiting in a line. A good exercise to passively stay up on at any time.
• Dips: With your back against a chair and hands on the chair, lower yourself down to a 90-degree angle. All around benefits.
• Finger Hangs: I’ve done these on properly secured door molding, but I suggest getting one of the many finger or hanging boards on the market. These exercises will benefit the fingertip on down to the core. The variations on these exercises are numerous and depend on the number of fingers used, added weight, and duration of hang.

The Climbers Diet. Fueling Your Rock Climbing Training.

Overall climbing nutrition comes down to strength to weight ratio. A climbers ability can be improved greatly by simply shedding a few pounds. Logically you will have less to push and pull up the wall just by losing a little more body fat. Fats are also slower to digest, so it is beneficial to avoid them pre-workout or climb. Hydration is vital to any diet, but you are not a fish and your body can only absorb so much water an hour so be careful, don’t go overboard, and supplement with salt intake.Below is a brief overview of this somewhat controversial subject.

• A broad rule of thumb for caloric intake: 50% Carbohydrates, 30% Protein, 20% Fat
• Dietary fads will come and go. Seek a balance with your own nutritional needs. If you feel the need to deprive yourself of something (looking at you carbs…) seek alternatives.
• Make Arrangements to keep your diet stable while traveling through pre-planning your meals. This can also save you money as you are not prone to the quick and easy rout of fast food and any other empty calories you find in your journey.

Rock Climbing Recovery.

The Indoor Climbing World…

Indoor climbing provides a gateway into the sport of rock climbing. Beginners, as well as seasoned pros, use gyms year round. Most gyms offer classes and specialized training to climbers of all ages and skill levels. Most indoor climbing gyms are available no matter the weather. Gyms vary in size and what they can offer to new climbers so it would be beneficial to visit several to see which gym is right for you.

Things to know before you go…

• Wear loose comfortable clothing that you’re not afraid of getting chalk on.
• Be sure you use your whole body especially your legs and remember when climbing to keep those arms straight.
• What gear you need to bring/buy. Some gyms offer equipment rental, so call ahead or go online to their web page to find out more.
• Communication with your belayer and trainer is crucial, especially in the beginning.
• Do your research and invest in some good shoes.
• Watch and learn.
• Do Not Give Up!!!

The link below is an invaluable list of climbing gyms in your area!

New Interactive Climbing Gym Map on CBJ

Bouldering… A Staple of Indoor Climbing.

Indoor bouldering provides a small barrier to entry for rock climbers as the need for expensive equipment is not necessary. Bouldering can be done with as little as some chalk, shoes, and likely a crash pad. The climber will typically remain below a height of twenty feet so any falls should only damage pride and nothing else. Here the climber will build the skills and strength necessary to move on to other challenges if they so choose.

The V Scale System.

Bouldering routes or problems are assigned a number on the V scale rating system. These ascend from lowest (V0) to highest (V17). Sometimes gyms use VB to note beginner problems. In the beginning, it’s vital to have a trainer to share with you the subtle details of climbing. Often times one wishes to simply keep going up in difficulty until they hit a plateau or a wall in their training, but this is folly. Mastery of the various problems in any type of climbing is through repetition and patience… A good trainer can provide you with these insights and so much more. So it is in the climbers best interest, in the beginning, to see broadly all that goes into the various forms of climbing and make the best decision based on their own personal goals.

Bouldering Techniques.

The cliche of the muscle-bound he-man scaling up an ice wall with his legs being just a side note is very much alive and well. In most cases, you will not get very far without the use of your legs. The arms should be kept as straight as possible and the legs should be what is used to move upward. Your legs are undoubtedly stronger than your arms and this is the key to climbing…You would not walk any length of time with just your hands, would you? Use proper footing such as with the sides of your feet, then your legs will move you up, and finally, your arms to guide and balance the core which should be as close to the wall as possible. And with patience and repetition, these steps will come naturally.

Static and Dynamic Climbing.

Two major variations of movent will fall under static or dynamic movements. Static movements are slower more calculated means of climbing with three points of contact remaining on the wall at all times. Dynamic movement uses the climber’s momentum to reach otherwise difficult positions however if the movement fails there is a serious risk of falling. Both of these methods have their own place in climbing so it’s best to experiment with them both to find the balance that works for you.

As you can probably see, indoor bouldering is by far the most accessible means to enter rock climbing. Now get out there and grab some rock!

Top-Rope Climbing… Movin’ on up…

In top rope climbing, you are introduced to harness-and-rope climbing. Basically, you will be tied into one end of the rope while you climb, while the other end will be held on the ground by a trained belayer. What a belayer does essentially is managing your inevitable fall through the management of their end of the rope using a belay device (ATC). You will fall… Just goes with the territory. The harm of this fall is carefully mitigated through many safety devices, skills, and procedures, and is not the end of your climbing career. It can be scary, yes but there are gym members you have your safety in mind.

Communicating With the Balayer.

Here are some common, and useful phrases used by top-rope climbers both indoor and out along with their meanings… Communications are critical between the climber and belayer for any successful top rope climb.

• On belay?: Are you ready?
• Belay on: Ready to begin belaying.
• Climbing: On the move.
• Up Rope: Too much slack in the rope. Belayer takes some rope.
• Tension: Climber feels unsafe and needs the security of a shorter fall.
• Slack: Rope is too tight.
• Take: Belay is locked, the climber is letting go. Very often said when the climb is done.
• Off Belay: Climber feels safe and confident.
• Belay Off: Rope is clear of the belay device, and they are done belaying.
• Rappel On/Off: Letting the belayer and others know you are starting your way down.
• Rock!: Heads up on an incoming object heading down.
• Rope/Clear: Warning by climbers who are about to drop a rope below. Clear being the affirmative to drop the rope.
• Lower/Lowering: Said when climber needs to come down.The phrase “lowering” will be used as an affirmation by the belayer as well as a warning of the descent.

The Gear? Get the Knowhow First!

There are tons of resources on the internet about what gear you need to go rock climbing, but above all, the most important thing is proper training in their use. Just tying a simple knot around your waist will not benefit you as a rock climber. See how the various pieces of equipment work several times before simply tossing money around, perhaps on gear you never even needed! Rock climbing can be a safe and rewarding sport if done correctly with a little bit of knowledge and proper guidance. Just going in Wile E. Coyote-style can get you hurt, or worse… What better way to get started in indoor climbing than joining a rock gym or finding groups in your area that are sure to share your passion for this rewarding and challenging sport!

Rock Climbing Training

What is Rock Climbing?…Hint It’s not all muscle.

All ages and genders can participate in rock climbing all the way up to the highest capacities. There are pre-teen girls who are considered among the best climbers in the sport. Rock climbing requires you to overcome your own mental boundaries of what you are capable of.

Climbing is About Balance…

Rock climbing is a balance of both mind and body. The strength of those parts and how flexible they are. It’s about problem-solving, and a deep understanding of oneself and their capabilities. There are no silver bullet skills or physical genetics to get you to the top of this intriguing sport. It’s you versus the rock … You versus yourself. When against the unforgiving rock there is no room in the mind to wander off… All you have is yourself up there along with some gear. Give up or falter and gravity will do the rest…

What are the Benefits of climbing?

• Increased strength and muscle tone… From head to toe, climbing will exercise all key muscle groups.
• Increased flexibility of the body as well as the mind… Solving problems in a holistic manner, perseverance, and dedication is what climbing is all about.
• Oddly enough reducing stress… Increasing levels of norepinephrine, a key neurotransmitter in relieving stress.
• Burns a lot of calories… The sights, the sun, solutions, and the sweat. All combine in a perfect union of exercise for the mind and body.
• Seeing the world from a different perspective… Feels good to be “on top of the world!”
• Conquering fear(s)… Heights are a common sight in climbing. So is falling but through the use of many safety measures, injury and harm are mitigated.
• The challenge… By pushing ourselves out our comfort zones do we learn and grow as human beings. We could all use more of that.

So how does one get into the world of climbing?

First, lest delve into the most common types of rock climbing, as well as some of the gear associated with each type…

• Traditional or Trad Climbing: A climber or group of climbers places all gear that is required to protect against a fall, and removes all said gear when the climb is complete. Common equipment that is used is spring-loaded camming devices, slings, hex chocks, steel nuts, and chalk and harnesses.
• Bouldering: Performed on large rocks, boulders, and artificial rock walls.Climbs are more reliant on the problems encountered rather than the height of ascent which is usually less than 6 meters (20feet). Bouldering requires only some equipment such as crash pads (in case of falls), chalk, and somewhat specialized shoes.
• Sport Climbing: Much like traditional climbing with the exception that it relies on permanent means of fall protection being drilled into the rock in the form of bolts. Many climbers start in sport climbing through indoor gyms as well as the need for less equipment than trad climbing. The practice of bolting routes remains a hot topic amongst members of the climbing community to this day…
• Top-Rope: An anchor system is placed at the top of the climb with a rope passing through below to a belayer at the foot of the climb. The belayer acts as the fall protection in this instance of climbing, so communication is key here for a successful climb. Commonly found in indoor gyms throughout the world, top-rope climbing serves many as an introduction to rock climbing. A top-rope climber will always use a harness in conjunction with a belay device.
• Free Climbing: The climber uses a rope to protect them from a fall and not in aiding in their ascent. Not the same as free soloing.
• Crack Climbing: Here climbers use specialized equipment and techniques to ascend natural cracks in the rock. Many Traditional climbing paths will follow these natural areas to place gear to protect from falls. Common gear is much like trad with an emphasis on hexes, nuts, and cam devices.
• Deep Water Soloing: The protection here rests solely on a body of water being under the climber. Rubber dinghies or other small craft are sometimes used to pick up climbers that have fallen into the water. Synthetic soled shoes and liquid chalk are specialized tools used to counter the wet environment in deep water solo climbing.
• Free Soloing: Free soloing is the most dangerous of all climbing methods. Highly dangerous as there is no safety equipment except the own climber’s skill, determination, and the mood of nature itself. Not recommended to even watch for the faint of heart…

The Gear You Need…

• Rope: Comes in a static form used mainly for anchoring, and rappelling. The other class is dynamic and stretches to absorb the energy from a fall.
• Webbing: A multi-purpose sewn tube of nylon. Some uses include being an anchor around rocks or trees, An anchor extension, carrying equipment, protecting expensive rope hanging over sharp edges, and many other uses.
• Quickdraws: Used to connect ropes to bolts or other types of fall protection. Many times they come pre-attached to climbing walls in indoor gyms.
• Carabiners: Metal spring-loaded loops used to make connections. The shape and type of gate (opening) varies depending on the use of the carabiner. Two basic versions are locking and non-locking. Vital connections, on a belay device, or on an anchor point require locking carabiners. Non-locking carabiners are often a part of quickdraws.
• Harness: A vital part of most climbing forms. Connects the climber to the rope.
• Belay Device (ATC): Links a belayer on the ground to an ascending climber (or repelling). The belayer takes and gives rope to the climber based on verbal commands. “ATC” refers to perhaps the most common line of belaying devices from Black Diamond.
• Protection Devices: Small pieces of metal attached to a wire loop. Common forms include nuts and hexes.
• Chalk: Used by the climber to absorb moisture on their hands. Commonly stored in a bag in powder and ball form.

Perfect Practice Makes Perfect…

A short list of some equipment vital for any rock climbing training regimen…

• Training boards and fingerboards: Used by hanging to strengthen various grips. These are the most common and arguably the best way of increasing contact strength.
• Grip Savers: used to strengthen the ligaments in the hands and forearms.
• Training Balls: Small 3″-4″ balls used to hang off of and improve endurance.
• Campus Boards: Horizontal rods attached to an overhang. Can improve finger strength.

The action now is to visit your local indoor climbing gym for more in-depth instruction, and to experience the exciting world of rock climbing for yourself!!!

Indoor Climbing For Beginners.